Breaking and Training

Fall has arrived in many parts of California and with its arrival comes the "breaking" season. In our civilized culture, young racehorses are rarely "broken" to submit to the will of man. We attempt to teach them to be competitive athletes while retaining their own personalities passed on through their bloodlines.

We have found an excellent "baby" rider to pass along his trade secrets. Brian Strong is a tall, thin quiet fellow who might have fallen off a horse back in the early seventies as a boy. And he probably only fell off once. There are two reasons why Brian never falls off. One is that his legs are very long and his balance very sure. The other, more important reason, is that the babies he starts rarely buck.

Brian is a licensed California trainer based at San Luis Rey Downs. He is also an excellent horseman. He and his equally talented wife, Suzann, have been active in the business for the better part of their lives.

Brian & Suzann Strong,
San Luis Rey Downs, San Diego County:

My travels as a horse trainer have taken me all through the country to various racetracks and training centers. I have come to realize that there are as many theories on breaking and training horses as there are people who do it. There also have been volumes upon volumes of books, magazine articles, pamphlets and probably hieroglyphics and stone writings about the subject dating from ancient Rome (and before) until the present. There are some people who would like you to believe that there is something mystical about breaking or training horses. There is not, as people like Ray Hunt and John Lyons have proven over the years.

To say that there are trainers who can break babies better than others is certainly true. What sets the good educators apart from the bad is the knowledge they possess certainly, but it's also the understanding and consideration that they show their students.

If your goal is to have a responsive, well adjusted, confident athlete who will handle competition without falling apart and at the same time show the courage it takes to excel, then there are some techniques that are universal.
Consider this: A horse's mental maturity averages that of a 6-year-old child, and like that child, has a high level of curiosity and uncertainty. Approaching that mind with complex demands, impatience and/or force will only frighten the youngster and cause him to panic or "zone out". In that state nothing can be learned. Remember when we were in school. The best teachers kept the instructions clear and simple. They only added greater challenges when it was obvious that the student understood and was craving to move ahead.

This article is not meant to be "ten easy steps" to breaking a young racehorse. It is meant to be an outline of logical steps that make it easier for a horse to learn. Always assume that when a horse arrives to be broke he has not been handled and knows absolutely nothing. That way you'll not miss any steps and if he comes through the early steps quickly because he has been handled well, that's terrific. However, if he's been handled badly or not at all, then this will give you the time to reintroduce him to a better way.

THE FIRST STEP - GROOMING

I start with grooming because I believe it allows the horse to become comfortable with the human touch. Start by haltering the horse and attaching a cotton lead rope with a heavy-duty snap. Place the lead through a ring on the wall and hold onto it while you run your hand slowly over the animal until he accepts your touch comfortably without running to the back of the stall in abject horror.

Proceed with a soft brush and doing the same until he's accustomed to that. Continue the steps with currycomb, assorted brushes and cloths until he's in that "comfort zone".

I proceed with the "sacking out" process. I begin with the rub rag and toss it onto the back and loins letting it slide down his sides and legs. Then continue the process with something a little heavier, like a saddle blanket. This is basically a slow process to desensitize the horse, remove his fears.

After Successfully graduating from the grooming stage most horses find the bath rather enjoyable

THE SECOND STEP - ROUND PEN

This day I devote to getting the horse to focus on me. I have found the best way to do this is by simple exercises while the horse is loose in the round pen. The freedom in the pen allows the horse to think that the choices he's making are his own idea when of course we know that they are ours. (or should be).

I start by going in either direction and, by the placement of my body, ask the horse to turn into the wall and reverse direction. By the end of the session the horse will turn to the wall or towards me and reverse or simply approach me by the positioning of my body. I will not go into detail on this subject because John Lyons has a wonderful video clinic dedicated solely to this subject. Once the horse has figured out these basic exercises he is now
focused on the instructor and eager to learn more.

THE THIRD STEP: LEADING

I would just like to mention here that although I would love to take credit for inventing a miraculous new way of breaking horses, these steps are just a culmination of all the bright, dedicated, trial and error thinking that went on before me with my personal trial and error interpretation.

Again here, I believe that Mr. Lyons has developed one of the best methods for teaching a horse to lead. Once a horse learns this, it is a breeze teaching him to load, with calm assurance, in a trailer.
Facing the horse, I put a gentle forward pressure on the lead line while lightly tapping the horse on top of his croup with a whip. (I find the length of a driving whip most suitable for this lesson.) When the horse takes a step forward the tapping stops.

I then ask him to take a step backward by reversing the pressure on the lead and placing another hand on his shoulder. When he takes a step back the pressure stops. I follow this pattern until he's taking multiple steps forward and backward on command.

Continue the exercise until he's walking complete circles and backing one or two steps with the simple pressure of the lead rope.

When teaching the horse to load in a trailer, use the same principle of walking one step forward and then back. Start by asking him to walk over a simple mound of dirt or a flat piece of board on the ground. When the animal is comfortable doing this it is relatively easy to move on to the trailer ramp.

THE FOURTH STEP:
SADDLING AND BRIDLING

Saddling and Bridling.

Just a headstall and light bit (such as a copper snaffle, eggbutt or hollow mouth loose ring) with no reins works well here. Bit him up over the halter so that you keep a hold on your lead rope. Place your saddle pad on his back and then either a saddle or surcingle.

If using the saddle it is best to leave the stirrups and leathers off. The less there is to get in the way the better at this particular stage.

While holding onto his head with the lead rope slowly attach the girth, allowing him to feel that there is something around him.

Remember, the idea is to desensitize him, not teach him to buck. Walk him around a bit until he's comfortable and his eye is soft. Then proceed by tightening the girth maybe another hole or two. Walk again and continue this process gradually until the girth is snug but not tight.

Something I failed to mention is that it behooves the both of you to do this either in a stall or small-enclosed area. I received a horse from New York one year that had been "started" by farm personnel. He was "wild eyed" and cut up. I asked 'What happened?' I was informed that they saddled the horse for the first time in his life outside the front of the barn. Three hours later they found him. He'd taken out three separate sections of fence and the saddle was nowhere to be found.

THE FIFTH STEP:
HEAD TO TAIL
TEACHING TO GIVE TO THE BIT

The proper use of this exercise can be invaluable. Attach the end of the lead rope to a knot in the horse's tail. Pass the rope through the surcingle ring and snap it to the bridle ring. The rope should be taut enough to encourage the horse to cock his head to the left or right depending on what side you put the rope on, of course, but not too tight to make him uncomfortable. Encourage the horse to turn by clicking or a slight wave of your arm. This procedure teaches the horse to use his inside hind leg in a forward motion while it puts pressure on the mouth teaching him how to turn.

It is not prudent to leave the horse on his own during this exercise. If he gets confused you should be there to alleviate the confusion and guide him through to understanding. I have seen people who profess to break horses leave their charges while "head to tail" and run off to do errands for hours on end. Not only does this serve no beneficial purpose, it is also cruel.

After the horse figures out the exercise going to the left then reverse it by going to the right. Undo the lead rope and take it out of the surcingle ring. Ask the horse to lead forward, stop him, face him and with the left hand on the lead pressure slightly downward and backward asking the horse to lower his head, give to the bit and back a step. When he's completed this task pat his head and move forward. At first asking, he might not completely give or back but if he tries and at least gives with his head, stop the backward motion, praise him, then try it again.

Teaching a horse to turn without teaching them to "rubber neck" notice left hind leg is stepping up and in. The horse is learning to "bend" or turn properly.

Almost everything you will teach a horse involves asking him to give to some sort of pressure, whether from the bit, halter, etc. The key to his learning the lesson quickly is for you to release that pressure at the proper time; as soon as the horse gives then relax and build from there. Remember this is a gradual process. Don't demand everything at once. This is not meant to be a pulling contest. When he figures this out, then do the same exercise on the right side.

THE SIXTH STEP: TEACHING TO LUNGE

If the horse has a sensitive mouth or you think he might not pick this exercise up too quickly you can run the lunge through the bridle ring and attach it to the halter side ring until the horse gets use to the idea.

To be successful at teaching him to lunge, position yourself a bit behind the horse to encourage him to move forward and around you. Teach him to walk, trot and canter both ways. You may attach side reins during this part to teach the horse how to carry himself a little better and hold his head in a quiet, steady, position.

Be careful not to position the horse's head behind the vertical for this just teaches bit evasion; not a good thing if you want a steering mechanism.

THE SEVENTH STEP: DRIVING

There has probably been more written on driving techniques than any other part of breaking horses. The reason for this is that it is one of the most beneficial tools and one of the hardest to master. I would suggest that you get proficient at using it on an old pony before you try it out on a youngster.

You must constantly assess and reassess your youngster's reactions to what you ask and keep it simple. If he gets frightened and you're not prepared, you and he could end up in a tangle of lines.

But as I said before, you can teach a horse more in a shorter period of time using driving lines than any other technique. You can teach him how to turn, start, stop, figure eight, shoulder in, leg yield, back, and how to do some of this at a walk, trot and canter long before you ever mount him.

If he knows all this before a rider gets on, the next stage certainly will be less traumatic for both of you.
Driving is best done in a small-enclosed area. If you start in the open and something spooks the horse, he will run off. If you're fast enough to stay with him you might consider an occupation other than as a racehorse.

At the end of the driving sessions while holding onto his head, I place my arm over the saddle and put pressure on his back. Also I jump up and down a bit next to him to simulate some of the things he'll experience when I go to mount. Do this for several days so that eventually you're putting your foot in the stirrup and perhaps laying on your belly over his back so that when you finally mount it's not a big deal.

THE EIGHTH STEP: MOUNTING

The first day that you mount you needn't expect a whole lot. If he's comfortable with you sitting up there and not fidgeting you have accomplish something of value. If you do nothing but sit up there and then get off his back the first day, that's fine.

Slowly ask for some kind of movement that is not straight ahead. You can ask him to turn or back a little: any non-violent motion and you're going to build from there until you slowly get him to do what you want.

THE NINTH STEP: RIDING

The first day out of the Round Pen into the larger arena.	Here Pinch has seen an apparition - another horse with an appendage that seems to be a man. Could it be?	Still leary - but with encouragement sees that this situation is not as wierd as he first thought.

Now that you're up there, the more that you can show this horse the more confident he'll be. Ride with other horses, going with them and having them come toward you. Ride with one, ride with ten, and go on trail rides, sometimes by yourself, and sometimes with others. Let him look things over; the worst thing you can do is be in a rush.

If you find that your horse is getting upset, frightened or mad,
ask yourself two questions:

#1. Have I put this horse in a
position of pain in some way?

#2. Have I asked him in a
simple, direct manner for a
command that he is ready
to understand?

Nine times out of ten if we go back and simplify, the problem is readily solved.

In closing, I'd like to say to the horse owners first, do not leave the breaking of your horses to novices. It's much too important a job for the well being and athletic development of your expensive individual.

And to those interested in learning how to break young horses, my suggestion would be to apprentice with someone who's specialty is youngsters; go to clinics, study all the varied disciplines, not just the one you're interested in (i.e. racing, dressage, jumping, western etc). The more you educate yourself to different methods the more approaches you have in your repertoire for the different and difficult horses you might encounter.

When I was in Maryland I was asked to break a filly that I was told by the owner would be difficult. He came out to watch the first week and told me that he didn't believe in all that "sacking" and "driving" stuff.

I politely asked how he did things and he said that he just threw the saddle up there, then "bellywamped em" and sent the horse and rider out in the fields. He also admitted that more often then not they came back separately, all the worst for the wear.

I asked that he bear with me for a few weeks and then judge for himself. After 30 days he came back to watch his horse walk, trot, canter and gallop around an open field, doing figure eights and changing leads in a comfortable secure manner. His comment was "well, I guess that was about the easiest horse you've ever had to break."

A lot of people will think that this is a long, drawn out, convoluted way of breaking horses. But the process of gradual, progressive education will always work better than "bellywamping" and you will get the horse to a particular point faster, thinking through lessons with more confidence and self esteem. Certainly these are the qualities that you want to develop in your equine athlete.